Extreme Engineering

If you have ever seen the Discovery channel show called "Extreme Engineering", this is nothing like it ... but is it a notible mention none-the-less.

The "bamboo train" runs along a few kilometres of track outside of Battambang. Apparently it was installed during the French period in the 1930's and it goes something like this.








First you take a long length of track ... not necessarily in the same condition as when it was installed.











Place 1 front axle with original wheels ... these things are VERY heavy!










Place the other axle on the track ... this one has an extra "Drive" wheel off centre. This is for the V-Belt to run on.









The train deck is then placed across the 2 axels







The deck sits across bearings that encircle the axle

Next the engine is placed on-top, "floating"on 2 pieces of angle iron. The V-Belt is attached around the axle and the Engine pully. This v-belt sits loosely until a short stick is leavered against the engine, sliding it backwards, to make the belt tight. This is what give us drive ...




Before you know it the train is ready to roll



Behind us on the deck are our 2 moto's. In NZ, it would be considered good practice to strap these down with something to ensure they didnt tumble. It seems this is deemed unnecessary, and the drivers simply sit on the bike and apply the brake while the train is in motion .... i'm not 100% convinced although it gave the train driver some piece of mind.


The train rockets along ... not exactly sure how fast because we are very close to the track ... and after about 30 minutes we come to our stop.

Meeting on-coming trains is common and our departure was delayed a few minutes while some in-bound trains were offloaded. Part way down the track we came across 2 more on-coming trains ... and because we had the heaviest load, the opposing trains needed to be dismantled to allow us through ... everybody pitches in and nobody seems to mind ... it's all in a days work.

Beware the mosquito slayer

JONO - Tracie has to be the most proficient mosquito dispatcher that I have ever seen! Óne handed, back-handed, catch-release-catch ... the list goes on ... The bus trip from Phnom Penh up to Battambang wasnt as long as we expected, but the mozzies made the most of the short trip. I think the locals thought we were a bit strange swatting at them, but it helped to pass the time.

I have been pleasently surprised at Tracie's ability to cope with the lack of schedule too .. I had expected that we would need more definate plans to keep her relaxed, but we have managed to get this far with only one minor disagreement ... not bad for 4 weeks of 24/7! It has been a whole lot of fun actually ... that's good aye?

We are now in Siem Reap and although we will possibly be the only tourists to ever come here without visiting Angkor Wat, we are totally over the temples. We are respectful of the history and religious beliefs but I think we have seen enough now.

The trip here was surprisingly pleasent on the boat. It was 6 1/2 hours of roaring diesel engine, but inspite of the wooden seats, and the proximity to the exhaust, we survived relatively well. It was $20 for foreigners and $4 for locals ... perhaps we need some local based pricing in NZ? Skydive for 1/5th the price maybe?

It was amazing seeing the floating villages and the kids going to school on boats rather than bikes. One boat had a couple of kids who wouldnt have been older than 5yo, paddling in the middle of the river ... no life jackets of course ... I suppose they learn to swim really young. I was amazed at the navagational ability of the skipper .. for a large portion of the trip, their was no specific river, just a flooded plain with trees and water lillies everywhere. He managed to find the way through and only had to stop to clear the prop once.

The photos are proving to be a bit difficult to upload ... some computers just won't allow it. It seems that most of the OS's are illegal too ... probably why noone here has upgraded to Vista ... too hard to pirate.

What a Day!

TRACIE ... Yesterday will go down as another highlight. Jono is very excited to point out that many of my highlights so far have included motorbikes, and is wondering whether this means it is time for us to purchase another bike. I have told him, sell your car and your truck. There are no motorbikes on my agenda!
Anyway, yesterday we were on our way to breakfast, minding our own business, when we were asked by yet another moto driver if we would give him a job. Its hard to not get tired of people asking you for money or whether you want to go in their tuk tuk, but you have to remember that this is their life and without the mighty tourist (I'm kidding, I wonder whether we are really good for them at all) they may not eat. We were given a quick explaintion of what our day would look like in below average english, but it sounded ok and we needed a plan! The distances on the map looked pretty small, and even though we weren't desperately in need of visiting any temples, we thought that we had better look at one or two. Jono had heard of some of the places he spoke about, so we agreed to the huge fee (not) of US $10 each and off we went. Actually, we walked back to our accommodation and agreed on a meeting place 20 minutes later - our guesthouse had it's own drivers who didnt take too kindly to people infringing on their turf. The driver had said something about a short trip being three hours and I'm sure he said a longer one would be 5-6 hours (although I may have dreamed that part).
First stop was breakfast because we hadnt made it to that yet. THEN, off we went. I am sure what we did next is common in NZ if you're into off-road bikes and getting dirty, but probably not on the sort of bikes we were on. We went along for a very short time on a sealed road, then went onto a dirt road forever (like - an hour or two). It was so much fun, but bone and teeth jarring like nothing I have ever experienced. The roads were bumpy to say the least. My driver suggested that it would be easier on my hands if I didnt hold on (for dear life), which I complied with when the road wasnt bumpy (about 20% of the time) but the rest of it I was clinging on and bouncing around in and out of really big holes..
We eventually ended up at the bottom of a temple site; it was only 70 metres straight up, but we took the road - on foot, because it was too steep for bikes. The temple was ok, but the view was amazing. Not before I nearly died on the way. I haven't exercised for weeks now, but apart from that, with the incline and the heat and the humidity, I felt like I wasnt getting any air and I wouldn't make it! We did of course, and I dont think I have sweated so much in my life. '
There were rice fields literally as far as the eye could see - beautiful. Before we reached the very top we were taken to one of the famous Killing Caves. During the terrible times faced by the Cambodian people, this was one of the places they were killed en masse. People were thrown down a hole at the top of the cave, hopefully dying instantly at the bottom but I think that this would not have always been the case... There was a shrine of skulls and bones in the cave, and a tiny cage that people had been kept in. Incredibly sad, and I wish I could have stayed longer, but the few minutes in the cave, me crying of course, gave me the smallest glimpse of the sadness that the people of this country have had to live through.
After getting to the top, we took the steps down - we were told there were about 800. Writing this today, I can vouch that there were LOTS, cause my calves now feel like concrete.
After this place it started to rain, and we took shelter for a bit, then suggested that we could buy cheap raincoats so we could go on. When our driver got back with them, the rain stopped, which was pretty funny, but it rained later so we were glad for them. On to another temple, with this time only 500 steps to the top. From there we went past a site where there were a whole bunch of fruitbats (which was far cooler than it sounds) and then on to the "Bamboo Traïn". After all our exercise we were wet with sweat, and then with the rain had got more wet from the mud on the road etc (I had mud all up my legs - fun!). There were times when both of us thought that we would eat dirt (ie fall off), but somehow we didnt. Jono has taken one photo of the road, and that was pretty bad, but it was REALLY bad most of the time - but did I say FUN???
We got back about 5.30, cold and wet and having had an amazing time. One funny part about the cold and wet bit was that we had booked our first room without hot water, so a cold shower it was. I felt really bad giving the guys just $10 each for the huge day they had given us. I'm sure that it was a fair price for them, but they worked pretty hard for it, and of course had to buy petrol within that. There were a few things where better english would have been good, but this was a great day and we were so glad to have done it.

Our Island trip

Our island trip was pretty cool. There are some photos in the Sihanouk Ville Album if you are interested ... the red line on the map shows the route .... I have to say that for a map-geek like me, Google maps is VERY adictive!

I have decided that my next camera needs a built in GPS so they located themselves on the map ... much easier.


View Larger Map

Slight Change of Plans..

TRACIE ... In the interests of time, we have decided to fly straight from Seim Reap to KL. We would have spent a few days non stop on trains and decided for a few (literally) extra dollars we would skip some of that! We had planned to miss Thailand anyway so this just enhances our trip really. We fly on the 30th.

We have hired a bike for the day today and will head out to a waterfall soon to have a look. We'll also check out some of the other beaches, but reckon that we have got the best one right where we are. The accommodation is really decent and at US $10 a night it's amazing. We strolled over to the beach this morning (2 mins) for breakfast and a swim. Hard life eh..

Sihanouk Ville

The Living History

JONO ... When the Khmer Rouge took over Cambodia, they were intent on erasing the country's history ... adults were being killed off, and kids were being brainwashed into believing they were better off without there families.

Now the history is so much a part of everyday life that it is inescapable ... there are many amputees and blind as a result of land mines or torture; there are many kids whose parents can't look after them because of war related illness.

There is almost a pendulum swing away from the Khmer Rouge ideology ... there is evident a deep effection that parents have for their kids ... a strong bond of family.

When we have spent some time talking to people here, we start to get a picture that underneath is a deep hurt that is impossible for us to comprehend. Not knowing the wereabouts of family members (although they are presumed dead); seeing the torture and deaths of friends; being displaced from family land.

It is hard to understand but through the adversity of the past, people often seem very content with their lives now and they are moving on.

On a slightly different note; yesterday we were talking to the waiter at a resturant across from our hotel. About 25 years old, he works 7 days a week, sleeps at the restaurant for security overnight, and gets 2 weeks off a year when he goes back home to visit his family ... He seems really happy and was always eager to help. We forget how fortunate we are to get 2 days a week and 4 weeks off...

So Many Beaches, So Little Time...

TRACIE ... Wow, where we are staying now is so beautiful. We're in Sihanouk Ville. We have had thoughts about flagging some other places and just staying here for a while, but we will probably drag ourselves away in a couple of days, and head north again. I dont think I have ever seen such white sand. There are almost no waves (no surfing here) and its even warm enough for me to want to swim! Several times a day in fact.

There are loads of hawkers on the beach; lots of them teenagers. They are pretty pushy but are still happy to have a chat. They come and just sit down, really close, and talk away. Great english, which I guess they learn partially from school and a lot from practising on tourists. We've told them so far we're not buying anything. They say, 'Maybe tomorrow?' and we say 'Do you want us to be honest? Then not tomorrow!' Cause if you say maybe, you know they will hunt you down tomorrow! The problem is that there are dozens of them selling the same thing. We will probably buy some bracelets or something, but when WE want to not just because they are being assertive!

There are also heaps of land mine survivors begging. We've started keeping a few $$'s handy and just give them to the beggars. At home Jono hassles me that I give to too many causes, but these people just break your heart. Interesting though, they still seem happier than many westerners I see. It's cliche, but it seems so true that money isnt the thing that makes people happy.

Had a lovely day today on an Island tour. The snorkell equipment left muct to be desired, but the island we stopped on was beautiful, as was the water wonderfully warm and the food really good. The company was great also; we met a cool couple from Aussi - Craig and Jaqueline. We spent much of the day with them which was nice. On the way home it poured torrentially, which didnt spoil it at all - perfect timing!

Thankfully the days are going nice and slowly still. We are only about day 20 or so..